Dostoevsky Archives - Wandering North

We have had a fantastic last day in Russia. The sun has been shining all day.

Our first stop was the Aleksander Nevsky Monstery. It was Sunday morning so the church was full of worshippers. We joined in…for about 10 minutes. That was enough to enjoy the voices raised in song – as it is an orthodox service, there is no sitting, which is why we didn’t stay longer, plus, we had to go in search of a certain gentleman we had been eager to find. That’s right…Dostoevsky.

After wandering amongst the fallen and overgrown tombstones we realized we were in the wrong cemetery, and made our way to the far tidier plot which houses the famous graves. We found Dostoevsky, Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, and others. We were quite pleased.

From there we hopped on the metro to visit the Chesma Cathedral, where Rasputin laid in state after his murder. A stranger church I have never seen. It is pretty and pink, like a cupcake.

We then zipped back downtown to take in the Russian Museum, which had an exhaustive collection of Russian Art, the early 20th century works being my favorites (i.e. Kandinsky). The museum is housed in the former Mikhailovsky palace and is quite impressive.

To close the day we went to the Grand Hotel Europe – bar none the most elegant hotel in the city. We sat in the uber elegant and refined hotel lounge which doubles as a cigar lounge of sorts. We were there for nearly three hours. I had two cigars and vodkas to match. Betty Lou sipped fruity non-alcoholic cocktails and we nibbled on a fine platter of fruit and cheese. It was a perfect way to close our trip.

We are now going back to our room to prepare for our train trip; we leave at 7 am, so it will be an early day.

We both agree that our trip to Russia has been as wonderful and inspiring as we had imagined. Hopefully Estonia will be equally rewarding.

Thank you again for checking in on us.
For the final time,
Da svidanya,
Dale & Betty Lou

Ok, I bought some additional time on the computer. Where was i?

Ah yes, we were tired and cranky.

I am pleased to say that a good night’s sleep had restored us to our good humors and me to my agonizingly verbose self.

This morning we slept in until 9 and then had breakfast at the hostel.

Today is 9 May, which is “Victory Day” in Russia (the day they celebrate their victory over the Nazis and all soldiers lost in war). It is kind of like their fourth of July. There was a huge parade today, which somehow we missed, but the streets are thick with Russians waving flags and sporting ribbons and drinking in celebration.

Due to the holiday, all of the museums and attractions are closed. Churches, shops and restaurants are open. I had planned that we would spend the day walking and exploring parks and the river. We gave it a shot, but it was bitterly cold, raining and windy. After about an hour or so, we were frozen, so we holed up at a little cafe and sat there for a couple hours, enjoying coffee and lunch (I had pancakes with mushrooms & Betty Lou had mushroom soup and pancakes with beef).

We then felt ready to take on the day and I led us on a walking tour that took us to the magnificent Cathedral of our Lady of Kazan and St. Nicholas’ Cathedral. We also walked to Sennaya Ploshchad; it is not much to see today, but back in the day it was a favorite haunt of Dostoevsky and is where he got much of the inspiration for the characters in “Crime and Punishment”. We walked past the colossal Mariinsky Theatre and Yusupov’s Palace, which is notable not only for its beauty, but for the fact that it is where Rasputin was killed.

Just down the street is the most fabulous restaurant/bar called “The Idiot” (after the novel). It is just below street level and is comprised of several small rooms decorated with antique typewriters and furniture, comfy leather sofas and dining tables. It is super cozy – exactly the kind of place one would want to spend several hours engaging in pretentious political or philosophical conversation or working on one’s next novel. Each patron is given a complimentary shot of vodka. We spent some time there. I had vodka and a cigar and Betty Lou enjoyed a non-alcoholic cocktail called “A Little Tenderness”. There we met and chatted with three Canadian students touring with their university symphony.

After that, a walk home, with a detour here, to the Internet cafe.

Tomorrow we plan to tackle the Hermitage.

Ok, I think I have brought everyone up to speed.
Good night.
Until next time,
drn & bln

Wandering North

Tag: Dostoevsky

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