Wagah Border
Getting there
At the end of day two in Lahore, Pakistan I planned to go to the Wagah border between Pakistan and India for the famous Wagah Border ceremony. Each day since 1959 an impressive military ceremony is held at this border crossing, on both sides, with great fanfare and feats. Apparently it was not to be missed, so I put it on my list.
The border is not too far from Lahore and you can take a taxi and arrange to have them wait and drive you back or you can take a bus and walk a bit, but I went with a hassle free and slightly more pricey option; I went with the manager of my hostel in a car. While it did cost a little more than if I went on my own, it was worth it. I was able to ask lots of questions and get pictures that I probably would not have been comfortable asking for on my own. On the way there I enjoyed seeing the sights and streets, as the driver stopped repeatedly to get snacks for us to share – samosas, oranges, popcorn.
The Event
Everyday before sunset, hundreds of spectators gather in stadium-style seating on either side of the border, which is marked with a tall, pointy fence and gate. On one side is India and the other Pakistan. Each side has its group of aggressively moustachioed soldiers in fancy dress, complete with elaborate headdresses. There is music and flag waving.
Prior to the actual ceremony starting the crowds are worked into a frenzy with music and singing and cheering. There were men who hyped up the crowd, leading cheers and yells, waving huge flags. One man, who had only one leg, delighted the crown by spinning around and around and waving a massive flag in the air with endless enthusiasm.
Entrance is free and if you are a foreigner there you will be ushered to one of the seats in front for the best views.
During all this pre-ceremony hoopla, the soldiers are strutting around and posing for photographs. I couldn’t resist. Not only are their uniforms imposing, but they are ridiculously tall. Just for context in the photos, I am 5’9″ and they tower over me.
Finally, the ceremony started. The gates along the border open, though to be clear: the border may not be crossed. I asked my companion what would happen if one of the soldiers accidentally crossed the line and he said he would be jailed or killed. I couldn’t gauge if he was serious.
The ceremony itself consists of marching and competitions of who could blow a horn the longest and who could kick the highest. There is a lot of posturing, including assertive moustache twirling. There and regular chants of “Pakistaaaaan” and something about Allah and the crown went wild; leaping to its feet to join in.
It was very weird and really interesting. I had a great time. On the way back to the car about a half dozen people asked to take selfies with me; a trend that continued during my time in Lahore. Seriously, the friendliest people.
The Sickness Sets In…
That evening I hung out at the hostel, on the patio, chatting with a couple of hard core, long term travellers. It was great. But soon I started to feel…not so good. I was freezing cold (for no normal reason) and my hands started visibly shaking. At bedtime, I but slept poorly as I developed a fever and digestive issues. I felt awful but I figured that I had food poisoning.
In the morning I did not feel better and the symptoms then also included intense body aches. I’ve been sick on travels before and I wasn’t surprised – after all, I had been eating from food stalls with communal dishes and utensils – but this was bad. I didn’t think about it at the time, as I was only peripherally aware of coronavirus (it was mid-late February 2020), but weeks later, when I was home and still feeling bad with aches, a bad cough, occasional fever, and diarrhea it occurred to me I could had covid19, but at the time it did not occur to me at all. So my next two days in Lahore were mostly spent in my dismal room, feeling awful. Thankfully I packed my first two days with activity, so I didn’t feel deprived, though I did wish I had picked a nicer place to stay.
Fortunately, the next night I did muster enough fortitude to see the dervishes. That’s for another post.
